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São Paulo Fashion Week (SPFW) is considered the most stylish Latin American fashion show. Held at Oscar Niemeyer's Bienal building in Ibirapuera Park, SPFW presented six days of showcasing the latest collections of 40 Brazilian brands. In its 27ª edition the theme was “Passion- Paixão”. It’s also the Year of France in Brazil, so tributes to the world's fashion capital were also exhibited.
For this article, because there are many brands and it is difficult to resume in a few words all designers’ trends, we choose the most relevant and the best photography that could represent the fashion trends for spring-summer 2009-2010. The idea is to present Déjà vu readers with concepts and different styles form real Life Brazilian designers showed at São Paulo Fashion Week. Hope you all enjoy our big effort to bring the best from more than forty designers and brands ideas. As you will see most of the designers got the inspiration from people, music, dancer, movie, technology and even architecture. They try to create and represent in clothes several concepts.
The Animale griffe showed strong colors and fabric technology, investing in a sexy woman. Pieces with cuttings and transparency, and gusset of latex, cover and discovered the body, like a game of seduction. The modeling came with a lot of technology. The fabric looks wrinkled and has cotton applied with resin that looks like greaseproof paper and fibers with thermo pigments, which change color with the body temperature. The architectural neck, clippings and overlaps appeared in almost all pieces even in the very short dresses. The mixture of fabrics with leather gave volumes and the suggestion of more strength and wild instinct woman.
We had also very romantic dresses from Lino Villaventura in opposite from Animale. Contrasting the lightness of butterfly women imposed by the presence of men hunters Lino gained the whole attention of audience. The designer showed dresses based on the twenties and were so light that seemed to make the models fly. Parts made of organza, crepe, silk tulle and gauze. The luxury look came from embroidered with Swarovski crystals and pearls. The skirts were lined with armed tulles at the knee, full of embroidery and transparencies.
In contrast André Lima collection presented fabulous colorful geometric prints with intercalations of colors like black and white that refers to psychedelic. His sumptuous short dresses, with neckline or with strapless, showed asymmetry and cuttings with many points in the bust which explore people sexy side, such as shoulders and legs almost entirely shown.
Samuel Cirnansck’s catwalk show was perfect! He showed the strong and attractive women image. Samuel was inspired in Cuban women of the 40s, especially in the society lady from Havana Aleida Averhoff de la Riva, which represents the powerful and independent woman. The stylist exaggerated the mixture with male clothes pieces marked in the shoulders; high waist colorful pantaloons, very charming organza party dresses and skirts with many layers of drapes and frills. To complete the look models wear bodice and small leather belts which marked the waist.
The trend Maria Garcia likes to travel in mysterious and imaginary places. It presented a collection inspired by a mix of Tim Burton and Tim Walker photography. The inspiration gained a fashion shape with boudoir dresses made from multiple layers of satin silk similar to a summer baby doll for outdoor use that guarantee freshness and sensual clothes with lightness due to the transparency of organza. The shorts made with silk were embroidered with spangle and plume detail.
The collections of Isabela Capeto are always inspired in cultural expressions. This time, Isabela inspired herself in the artistic work by Robert Rauschenberg. She reused fabrics. Some marked waist dresses with large belt and roses or flowers prints. Odalisque trousers combined with twinset jackets. There is a hint of recycling in models structured from braid Haco labels. Dresses and skirts have details such as back side ties. The silhouette is evasive - well marked neck band in different nuances and with some frill.
Like Isabela Capeto, Erika Ikezili immersed in the world of arts for an inspiration source. Like a clothe architect, Erika’s collection seems dancing in the catwalk shows with the delicacy of a ballerina. Her design was based in the dance of Sylvie Guillen, and the paintings of Edgar Degas, the French impressionist painter. The collection is delicate and feminine and receives the name Evidentia, which refers to a video dance by Sylvie. The looks are romantic and feminine with a delicate transparency and glossy shine on some pieces with knitting aspect. She also used frills in oppose to the heavier gabardine fabric giving a counterbalance to her collection.
Wilson Ranieri used the moulage technique in which an outfit is built directly on a mannequin. This enables the construction of large and free clothes pieces. One of the main elements in his collection is the knots on handkerchief, bandana and belts giving charm for the waist. He’s concept looks for a fluid shape showing the legs and back for an informal and bereft women but still elegant.
Sophisticated and heroic women create the fashion universe by Fausen Haten. For summer 2010 the designer resolved to back in Nudes and soft tones. But he still had some excess creating asymmetrical dresses and using metallic fringes, sparkles and many frills. The folds were used to create layers in the sleeves of jacket and frills, ties and fringes gave a broader dimension for his creations. Silver embroidered appear applied throughout the length of dresses, skirts and blouses giving a very nice look.
The Ellus brand brought to the catwalks the world of motorcycle. The designer Adriana Bozon created smooth and clear looks, giving emphasis, the whole time in the white. With a collection based in street wear segment, her suggestion for women is shorts and street wear trousers always accompanied by male style waistcoat and jackets. The main idea was joining tank top with big armhole and hips volume trousers that are tapering and becoming increasingly tight when it comes to the ankles with reverse cuffs.
Colcci Summer of 2010 also brought the street wear style, stripped and sensual. The collection looks like "detonated and tattered" in jeans with ravel cuffs, as in coats and knit, with large holes. According to stylist Jessica Lengyel, the inspiration came from a Beach Diary and also from 90s in California - USA. For her, female fashion comes with very short shorts, dresses with fluted cuffs, “évasé” cutting which brings the idea of movement and shorts or low-rise jeans showing the belly button. Of course we can’t forget that Gisele Bündchen is Colcci exclusive catwalk model for the SPFW and she was there beautiful as always.
The stylist Priscilla Darolt got inspiration in an Iranian movie to her summer 2010 trends based on flowers model shape. Seeking the simplicity of everyday life as the most important and inspired by the movie's filmmaker Majid Majidi, “The Color of Paradise". Her inspirational idea speech of the day to day life in a poetic and practical way suggesting short dresses with fluted effects which better shape that show the female silhouette.
For the brand UMA and Raquel Davidowicz the summer 2010 is basically a volume study. In terms of colors and feelings she goes from the delicate to lugubrious as a transition from the dry and dark South American winter to the color clean and light summer. The gowns were above the knee with geometric neck and sometimes having purposeful hips with sides’ drapes or kind of moorings lashing. Holes and tissue less appear to balance the amount of fabric as well as the belts which hold the fine movement blouses. Her neckline and straps dresses also gave more visual lightness leaving everything sexier. Rachel was inspired in the geometry of concretism sculptor José de Oliveira Macaparana to play with lines and circles, both in prints and in forms. There is also a subtle presence in futuristic application of silks resins, metal and silicon wire.
If you liked these clothes you might find one next to you. But if you don’t find, maybe we can help you get one. Anyway just having a fashion idea on the Brazilian next summer trends may inspire you. Have fun!
This article has been sponsored by AA Trade Company, Cleary (128,128,0)
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